Next to the Roman Baths pub in York is a narrow doorway. It would be easy to miss – at first glance it looks like the entrance to the pub.

But a sign declares there are Roman remains inside, which seem too good to miss, and so I descend the stairs and enter a tiny museum in the basement of the pub.

I am greeted by the remains of a genuine Roman steam bath. I walk around, peering at stone slabs and studying drawings of how much of York was once Roman.

I’d never heard of this museum until stumbling across it recently, even though I’m a Yorkshire lass who grew up nearby.

But this is typical of York, and something that makes it so intriguing.

Walk around any corner or down any alleyway and you’ll probably discover something of historical significance.

From the Vikings to the Victorians, and just about everything in between, there’s probably a piece of architecture worth stopping for.

Among the most noteworthy is York Minster, rising in splendor out of the city centre, its elaborate gargoyles screaming towards the cobbled streets.

But many other treasures are tucked away or hidden from view, just like the Roman Bath Museum.

Many are inside the Medieval city walls – walk along the top of them for one of the best views of the city.

If you manage all two miles of the walls, you’ll probably be ready for a pint. Luckily, you’re never far from a pub in York – usually with its own story.

The Black Swan still has its original door compete with Black Death spy hole, once used to check for the plague.

Meanwhile, the 15th-century Snickleway Inn boasts its own ghost – a former landlady’s black cat called Seamus, who likes to brush past customers’ legs.

York is famed for ghostly goings-on – in 2002 the International Ghost Research Foundation declared it Europe’s most haunted city. Wander through the tangled streets after dark and you’ll soon bump into a guided ghost walk.

If you can spare an afternoon out of York, a short drive takes you to the most stunning countryside.

Nearby Castle Howard, the impressive stately home where Brideshead Revisited was filmed, is worth a visit for the drive alone. A few miles on is the edge of the North York Moors and the picturesque market town of Helmsley.

Here you’ll find The Feversham Arms Hotel, where locals and visitors alike head when they want to spoil themselves with some olde worlde charm. Pull up a comfy armchair around the log fire, order a cream tea, and enjoy a proper dose of Yorkshire hospitality.

If you fancy unwinding more, book yourself a massage at the hotel’s spa before heading off to the hot tub. And if you’re really daring, take a dip in the outdoor pool in the courtyard. An outdoor pool in Yorkshire?

Don’t worry – it’s heated all year round…

* The Yorkshire Pass: This money-saving pass provides entry to more than 70 visitor attractions, plus offers on restaurants, shopping and evening entertainment. A one-day pass costs £34, with options up to a six-day pass at £72.

Visit www.yorkshirepass.com or call 01904 550099.

*Where to Eat:

* Betty’s Café Tea Rooms, St Helen’s Square, YO1 8QP, www.bettys.co.uk, 01904 659142 Gorgeous high teas served in elegant art deco tea room.

* The Blue Bicycle, 34 Fossgate, YO1 9TA, www.theblue bicycle.com, 01904 673990 This former brothel is one of York’s most popular restaurants.

* Where to Stay:

* In York – Middlethorpe Hall and Spa, Bishopthorpe Road, YO23 2GB, 01904 641241, www.middlethorpe.com

* Near York - The Feversham Arms Hotel, Helmsley, North Yorkshire YO62 5AG, 01439 770766, www.feversham armshotel.com

* Where to Visit:

* York Minster, 0844 9390011, www.yorkminster.org

* Yorvik Viking Centre, 01904 615505, www.jorvik-viking- centre.co.uk

* Original Ghost Walk, 01759 373090, www.theoriginal ghostwalkofyork.co.uk

* York Castle Museum, 01904 687687, www.yorkcastle museum.org.uk